Art at the End of the World
“Club 86,” a public venue.
As my friend drove me through Bombay Beach, I peered at the run-down shacks and trailers that make up the town. Spare trees and patches of grass break up the largely dry, drab environment.
We parked in the south-end of town, closest to the shore. The town resides next to the Salton Sea, which looks beautiful under the falling sun (although the water is too toxic to swim in). Getting out of the car, I saw that sculptures and installations that dotted the beach.
It was nearly silent as we walked. I was awe-struck. Even here, in a dying town in the middle of nowhere, there’s still art.
Bombay Beach used to be a booming vacation spot. The town itself grew in the 50s and 60s, when developers saw the opportunity to create lakeside resorts along the Salton Sea. At its peak, Bombay Beach attracted over half a million visitors annually, including well-known celebrities like Frank Sinatra and Bing Crosby (The Food and Environment Reporting Network).
However, the Salton Sea itself is not a natural lake. It was formed entirely due to human error, when flooding overwhelmed the poorly built Alamo Canal in 1905. It has been evaporating ever since, without consistent water inflows. Agricultural runoff helped sustain the sea for some time, but this runoff brought large amounts of salt and pesticides. Combined with the evaporation of freshwater, which concentrated the salt, the lake became increasingly inhospitable. The worsening stench and the dying fish population drove most tourists away. (The Food and Environment Reporting Network).
Currently, Bombay Beach only has a population of around 231. There is only one bar, and the nearest gas station is 20 miles away in Niland (The Guardian). Most of the residents are senior citizens, or bordering on becoming one, and are unable to relocate due to economic reasons or attachment.
Despite this, the town saw a small resurgence in the late 2010’s, with small numbers of artists using it as an outlet for their creativity. They’ve added their own creations to the art that already existed, with some artists even buying property to create permanent exhibits. Since 2016, there has also been an annual (now bi-annual, since 2025) art event called The Bombay Beach Biennale, which hosts galleries, live performances, and even a philosophy conference (The Guardian).
Still, even during the off-season, Bombay Beach has plenty of interesting structures to observe. Here are some of my favorites:
“Diva Station of the Sea” (no creator found), which offers a seemingly great spot to have a tea party.
“Re In Car Nation” by Sean Guerrero. It looks really cool.
“Welcome to Wonderland, Send em a postcard, Tell em your never coming back," also by Sean Guerrero. I will forever ponder how this was built.
Going through Bombay Beach, I was reminded of the fundamental human need for art. Even in a decaying town, if not, especially in one, people value creation. In the remnants of civilization, we paint, we sing, we express.
Written by: Chloe Mattison
Photography by: Chloe Mattison and Ellie Underwood
Cover Design by: Lucille Mathieu
