Structural Norms, Reworked: Xijia Cheng at NYFW Runway 7
A Textural Debut
At Runway 7’s 7 p.m. NYFW show on Friday the 13th, Xijia Cheng introduced a ready-to-wear collection rooted in highly textural construction and experimental knitwear. Inspired by subcultures, anime aesthetics, and ideas of softness and strength, the garments challenge traditional structural norms. A lenticular anime card dress opened the show, drawing murmurs from the crowd, playful yet technically intricate. “It feels like I’m wearing a toy. That’s like the best thing to wear,” the model shared seconds after stepping off stage, capturing the unexpected energy of the collection.
The Designer Behind the Knit
Taking upcycling to an extreme, Cheng’s work transforms discarded materials into garments through zero-waste knitwear and digital patternmaking, positioning knitwear as both a technical and conceptual medium according to her press materials.
The 23-year-old Canadian designer has earned international recognition, with features in Cosmopolitan China and Harper’s Bazaar Vietnam and multiple editorial covers. Her designs have been worn by RuPaul’s Drag Race winner Yvie Oddly, Daya Betty, Bosco, and actress Celeste O’Connor, and most recently appeared in Glamour Bulgaria. She also created custom pieces for Patrick Starrr's One/Size Beauty holiday campaign.
Cheng is also the founder of @animefashion.archives, the world’s first and largest platform dedicated to anime- and manga-inspired fashion, which advocates for minority subcultures, queer creators, and global youth communities.
The Collection Concept
Rumblings swept the room as the collection pushed against conventional structure, balancing softness with armor.
Knitwear spoke as the primary design language for the collection, positioned as a kind of second skin. The designs pushed beyond traditional expectations, challenging conventional ideas of luxury and sustainability with bold structures made from used materials like upcycled yarn and textile waste.
Standout Looks
The show opened with a lenticular anime card dress created from @animefashion.archives screenshots and Cheng’s own images of real-life anime fashion. Each card featured three moving visuals.
“I’m honored to wear this piece — it’s so talented, original, authentic,” said the model who opened the show in the 3D card dress.
Photo by Julissa Martinez
Textured white knit piece made from cascading tubular strands that create a fringe-like silhouette with dramatic movement.
“It made me think outside the box on the runway,” the model said. “It’s not your typical garment, so I had to really consider how it would move and how to showcase it best.”
Photo by Shaohan Fang
The black-and-white closing look surprised even Cheng, “It was my first time making a corset. It was a challenge for me,” she said.
After the show she mentioned that it was nerve-racking, making her debut on any runway, but later said she is relieved and now just feels empowered.
Photo by Erin Seitzler
Drawing from her personal interests and subcultural influences and transforming them into tangible creation, Cheng proves that knitwear — though trendy and often overdone — can still feel innovative and intentional.
Sustainability becomes the quiet cherry on top of the collection, woven naturally into each piece rather than used as spectacle. Amid the spectacle of NYFW, the work stands out for its focus on talent over expense. For such a young designer with clear cultural influence, Cheng’s presence on the runway feels earned, a result of staying true to herself.
Written by: Erin Seitzler
Cover Design by: Erin Seitzler
